Monday, March 5, 2012

The Dirty Yeti Beach Party: Chelan and Bremerton

Aldo Stepped from the shadows.


Everyone who traveled knew Aldo. He was on every street corner in every city in the world. His parents forced him to learn to play the violin in hopes of getting a court position. Aldo instead of pursuing his parent's dreams of stately dinners, he ran off with a passing tribe of Gypsies. Now he made his living playing for coins, bells strapped to his ankle, and dressed in every color.

"Aldo!" exclaimed Sir Kent and Jack. They began searching their pockets for a coin to buy a song.

"Hold you money tonight Gentle Sirs. The Galt Line approaches."

Aldo swept off his hat in address to the room. "How do I know?" He asked everyone. "Because I saw them last night."

"What!" Shouted Jack.

"Oh yes! And they played... for hours... and destroyed another tavern."

"How extraordinary." Jack whispered.

"They are a menace Good Men. But they mustn't be stopped. For they may destroy this very tea house, but may all be richer for it."



The Spokane show had gone really well, which meant we woke up very slowly. By 11 we were in the car with the city in the rearview. Our next stop was a little resort town by a mountain lake called Chelan. We were booked to play The Vogue Lounge, a popular coffee shop and wine bar. First we had a long drive across eastern Washington ahead of us.
 
Most of this portion of the state is sprawling plains, dotted with little, dense pine forests. Frost and icy fog clung to the grasses, giving an otherworldly halo to the whole scene. We passed through little western towns centered around grain mills and railroad depots. Soon mountains crept over the horizon, snowy peaks first, followed by miles of rolling foothills.







As we approached the mountains, the road became more remote. Only a few farmhouses dotted the ethereal landscape. When the road began to wind downhill to meet the first of the rocky foothills, enormous volcanic boulders began to pop up, hulking suddenly over our path when we would turn a tight corner. Against a steely sky, a great black rock can be an impending sight.



Winding between mountains and crossing old steel bridges brought us suddenly to the wide main street of Chelan. Boutiques line either side. The road meandered to a blue painted steel bridge, punctuated with antique street lamps. We parked the Yeti and had a lunch of salad and baked spaghetti at a local diner. After a mighty cup of delicious (though slightly motor oil like) coffee, we wandered the tiny lakeside town. A local park provided an easy path along the mountain lake. While strolling, a gigantic husky joined us, trotting happily around the park, apparently unconcerned about the local leash laws.



When the path led us back into town, we spotted some local artists building ice sculptures with fevered intensity. Crowds had gathered to watch these men athletically manipulate huge blocks of ice. Several tourists sat on a great ice throne for pictures, invariably rubbing their freezing backsides after descending.


AWWWW! Lookit!

When the sun sank behind the looming mountains, we stepped into The Vogue. We introduced ourselves to Mike, the owner, and Danielle the barista on duty. They made us very comfortable while we worked on the computers. When the time came, we loaded onto the small stage and got ready to play. A few patrons filtered in, ordering glasses of wine and lounging comfortably at the bar. We played a laid back show for them, totaling about 2 ½ hours. Everyone seemed to have a pretty good time. A few people dropped us tips and we sold a bunch of shirts and CDs.

When we were loading out, a little snow had started to fall, and an icy frost was beginning to cling to everything. We figured we should get out of town before we got stuck in the mountains. Our lodgings for this chilly evening were in Wenatchee, a town filled with fruit packing factories and cheap motels.

The night went by fast. Morning came greyly through the grimy window. We were on the highway quickly, winding through the cascades, and finding our way to Bremerton. This town’s main distinction is having the honor of being home to a naval repair yard. Having just recently toured the Norfolk VA naval harbor, it was interesting to see the same situation mirrored on the West coast. The Town is perched on a hill on a peninsula guarding the Puget Sound. It has the rusty look of a Midwestern industrial town, but with a touch of charming Western kookiness.






We found the Hi Fidelity Lounge poking out of a tight little alley. We heaved the wooden door open and were greeted with a drunken song. The bar was crowded to the gills with merry makers from the local Hash club, which has something to do with imbibing and running in the woods. We were greeted somewhat coldly by Gentry, one of the owners, and by Kelly, the other owner and birthday girl. Both were thoroughly engaged with the club, who had somehow invaded before the bar had officially opened. We ducked out, hoping to grab some food and let the bar owners get a handle on the drunken runners.




At a grocery store we munched on sandwiches and made predictions for the evening while watching the town filter through the checkout lines with their dinners and libations. When the time came, we marched back to the venue, threw open the door and demanded attention. The owners were much more helpful now, and soon we were loaded in with drinks in hand. We also met our bill mates, Pearl and Chris, The Driftwood Singers. Once the sound guy arrived, we were ready to start. The Driftwood Singers began with a set of haunting country ballads, complete with floating harmonies and raggy chord changes.

We jumped up next and played an energetic set. A few drunken dancers stomped in from the front room and turned the whole thing into a real live party. When we were done, we chatted with some of the crowd and had a few beverages. Near the end we talked to two Navy types who were enjoying their night off together. They were from Delaware and Philly, so we jawed about the Mid-Atlantic while they got seriously drunk.



When the party was over and the bar was shutting down, owner Gentry invited us to stay for the night. Soon we were stretched out on the floor of his house while his dogs ran circles around the room. We passed out.


Two men from the village came in up the stairs and brushed roughly past Aldo. They were villagers who I had seen around. I had never thought they would come in here, as they didn't speak English, and didn't care for the English. But down they sat, and began to fish coins from their clothes.

When I approached the table, one of the men looked up and grunted. "Galt Line? Here".

"Well it seems so Gents." Sir Kent offered.


They conferred rapidly in their native Hindi. "Two Teas." the one said gruffly. As I turned to fill his order he grabbed my arms and gave me a conspiratorial wink. As the only liquor officially available here is made from fermented goat's milk, I assumed he wanted a discreet drop of brandy. I slapped down two tea and brandys. 

"Its on me tonight you two kind men. The Galt Line is coming and we must prepare." I pulled the bottles from under the counter. "Come on, Drinks half price for everyone, all night!"


Monday, February 6, 2012

The Dirty Yeti Beach Party Days 7 and 8.

Jack, a very shrewd man, thought with narrowed eyes for a moment.

“It could be a mechanical thing. There are great mechanical wonders in the world today.”

Sir Kent spoke up with a raised eyebrow. “T’would be a wonder that could travel the way people talk about it.”

“I’ve seen it,” Tanaka said, “It carries them and all of their gear through snow and over mountains. It has a V6.”

“A what?” I asked.

“A heart that beats so strong that the beast could drag anything anywhere.”

“That does sound like a wonder.” Jack spoke softly as the sun set outside the window.

We left Aberdeen for a long, flat drive across South Dakota. The plains whizzed by while the van hummed gently over a cracked state road. In the afternoon, near the border of North Dakota, we saw an enormous, hand-wrought metal sign advertising “The Enchanted Highway”. We jammed the brakes, jerked the wheel, and took a little side trip.

The Enchanted Highway is one citizen’s attempt to help his small, agricultural town. Gary Greff built huge metal sculptures to help drive Interstate traffic through the area of Regent ND. These sculptures are really big.







The Montana border came with a new landscape. Soon mountains sprouted on the horizon. Canyons and grasslands and cliff side roads filled our windows, growing ever larger until we pulled into Butte. We got ourselves a nice room in a hotel shadowed by snowy peaks. After some fitness room torture, we settled in for some computer work and dinner.






The next morning we took to the roads again, following the twisting highway around the mountains. Afternoon flew by, and the sun set on us as we hit the Idaho panhandle. Through the dark and over snowy Interstates, we passed quickly into Washington. Spokane is right near the border, and we were pulling into the town before we knew it.



Neato Burrito sits in a very clean and highly commercial looking downtown district. The Baby Bar is a tiny room in the back of Neato Burrito. After checking in, we explored the neighborhood. There were plenty of bars and restaurants featuring live music, though mostly cover bands. The streets were clean and lit and bustling. When we made our way back to the venue, it had packed in a bit.

Silver Treason, the other band on the bill, arrived and was loading in. We all shook hands and helloed a little before getting right down to business. There was a nice write up for us in the local alt paper, so a few people had come in curiosity. Many people came to see Silver Treason also. When the room was nice and packed, we started in. It was a pretty cool show. The crowd produced a few screamers and dancers. Everyone was in.




Silver Treason followed us with some high energy honky-tonk and western swing. They were awesome. While they we playing we hung out with Tim and Patty (owners) who had a show with their own group, Whiskey Dick Mountain, earlier that night. By the end, we had to sneak out through a pressing crowd of beer drinkers and merry makers.




We passed out in a very cheap room soon after.

“You see, their beast carries them all over.” Kanaka nodded.

The three men looked solemnly into their drinks.

“So they are coming.” said Sir Kent. “What do we do?”

“We wait!” came a new voice from the hall. Bells jangled and strings hummed. “They are coming, but you have nothing to fear!”

A new traveler had climbed the stairs.

Next Episode… Eastern Washington, Apple Country, and the city of Chelan

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

The Dirty Yeti Beach Party Days 5 and 6.



Kanaka filled the darkened doorway, tracking sand and high desert snow behind him.
Kanaka smokes too much.

“They travel on the back of a great brown Yeti.”

A For Real Yeti


Kanaka was a tall man with sun scorched and brown skin. He made his living taking foreigners through his native mountain pass. He carefully peeled off his great goat skin boots, and shrugged off a cape of different animal hides.

Both men knew Kanaka, and gave a very slight bow in respectful greeting.

“What do you know of these two, mate?” Jack asked.

“I know they ride their great beast across mountain and plain, crushing cities. People gather in multitudes to see them.”

We left Austin’s in the afternoon, and streamed out onto the flat Midwestern highways. Shatner once again got us a room that would normally be way beyond our reach. In a few hours we had crossed the space from Illinois, through Wisconsin, and into Minnesota. Along the way we spotted frozen lakes, the Black Hills, and many truck stops.




Once we were in our room, we prepared to torture ourselves in the hotel gym for a while. We were, however, rewarded with a fine dinner of salad and wine from our local grocery store. I dozed while Blythe did computer work and the cable TV murmured in the background.

We woke early to eat some breakfast. Blythe went to the gym again while I took a look at what the city had to offer. Of course our first choice, if you know us at all, is the great consumer monstrosity known as the Mall of America. We pack out of our room and headed over. We were treated to such sights as enormous Lego statues, indoor roller coasters, and stores full of things no one would ever need. We ate, drank, people watched, and even caught a movie. Then we killed a guy and hid him in a forgotten janitor closet. If you're a local, see if you can guess which one. We named him Waldo.

 
Later we walked the city. We were both thoroughly impressed by the architecture of the city. We shuffled along the icy sidewalks while marveling at flying skyways and a great glass library. Soon we settled in the bar with some food and a few beers while we waited for Peter and the Twins.



Peter and Andy showed up with a crew in tow. They were ready to play, so we all set up quickly and prepared to rock the room. Peter and Andy opened with some of their original tunes, Peter on guitar and Andy on cajon. We followed up with a quick and tight set. The crowd was appreciative, but not crazy. People bought shirts. At the end of the night we streamed out to the suburbs to have some drinks and chat.


Many shots of whiskey and sake later, we somehow ended up in a comfortable bed. Before we knew it, the sun rose over a snowy landscape. We snuck out of the house and were on the highway in minutes.










Aberdeen SD lay before us. The Red Rooster Coffeehouse was to be our host for he evening. Our route took us on a long state road to the little town. The road wound around tiny lakeside towns and grain mills. In the afternoon we pulled up to The Red Rooster, which was situated in a prominent storefront in the downtown area.
 

The interior was lined with used books and local crafts for sale. We ate sandwiches and worked on the computers while we watched locals come in and catch up on the holidays with each other. A gaggle of dramatic teenagers sat together and complained about their lives, and a meeting of mentally challenged people assembled to decide where they could gather to discuss the role of religion in their lives. Local musicians sat together and discussed what new bands were playing in Minneapolis and whether or not they could organize a road trip. The Red Rooster is Aberdeen’s great equalizer. People of every kind came in to meet.

A trio of locals called Elder opened up with acoustic arrangements of broad ballads. Afterwards we set up quickly and slammed through and hour long set. The crowd was mostly apathetic, but a few people came up to talk and buy some merch. Dan, owner and operator, complimented our show and offered us a bed for the evening.

At Dan’s house we sat up and chatted about travel and art and such. Before long we laid down and dreamt of our coming two day drive across the Dakotas and Montana.

“These two are surely a menace!” Sir Kent exclaimed.

“Oh, I don’t know, mate,” said Jack, “Seems to me they’re just two more travelers, carving their living out of the landscape.”

 “What is this Yeti you’re talking about?” I asked Kanaka.

“They travel on the back of a great dirty beast that climbs mountains in a step.” Kanaka said solemnly.

“What manner of beast could that be?” asked Sir Kent. “There’s hardly a creature not known to man already.”

Next Week… Dakota, Montana, and Spokane.